With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, I had two related problems:
my original problem itself AND how I explained it to anybody else.
What I SHOULD have said was how far I got.
Yes, I did get to 'Modify' and even did click on the 'Modify Style' window's 'Format' dropdown/up menu.
But THERE's the problem : 9 different options.

• Font
• Paragraphs
• Tabs
• Border
• Language
• Frame
• Numbering
• Shortcut key
• Text Effects

Even if some of those are of more obvious relevance than others,
I hope you can see how that menu can be confusing and even intimidating.
And knowing now that the answer is 'Font/Advanced' does not make me forget
how UNobvious that was till recently.